Day 4. Sun 13th August

Bangula

Grateful for a comfy bed, I sleep in until 8, and then fortify myself with a Doogles Bumper Breakfast.
The Shire valleyAs far as I was aware there was no broadband internet in Malawi last time I was here, and, although I had heard that was being introduced, I expected to have to search the posh hotels to find it, so I am very pleased to find that now even Doogles has broadband, although it is a bit slow, and not very reliable. The PCs have USB connections too (they have apparently had a bad virus just recently, and have removed all the floppy drives, but left the USB ports - not sure of the logic in that!).
I could do with a few more materials for the education project - maybe coloured paper and glue, so, it being Sunday, I pay MK1200 for a taxi to ShopRite, but they don't have anything that the ShopRite in Lilongwe didn't have. Never mind, I should be OK with what I've got. Food supplies in Bangula are a bit limited, so I stock up with packet soup, bread, cooked meat, cheese and some emergency food bars (nothing too heavy!), and by noon I am off on a minibus to Nchalo.Binson Musongole
I can feel the temperature rise as we drop down the steep winding road into the Shire valley. I never tire of the view from this road. I try to imagine David Livingston battling his way up the Shire only to be blocked by the Chapichira Falls (now within the boundaries of the Majete Wildlife Reserve), and then struggling on foot up the side of the valley to found his church and Blantyre, and to discover first Lake Chilwa and then Lake Malawi (on reaching the lake he asked the natives what it was called, and they told him Nyasa, so he named it Lake Nyasa, from whence came the name Nyasaland, by which Malawi was known while under colonial rule. Unfortunately what he didn't realise was that the natives had no name for the lake - Nyasa simply means "lake"!).
Normally it is necessary to change at Nchalo, which usually means clambering on to the back of a matola, an open flatbed truck, which means a lot of dust, and usually the added thrill of having to perch on the side panel. However, as it turns out, this minibus is going all the way to Nsanje, so I stay on board. Nchalo is a major changeover point, however, so we must wait for the minibus to fill up again - minibus drivers make their profit on the last few passengers and won't leave until they are packed full. I risk a hard boiled egg and some nuts from the local traders while we wait, and get chatting to a guy who turns out to be a newspaper reporter. His name is Binson Musongole, and he has worked for the Blantyre Weekly Digest and the Nation on Sunday (the Nation is one of the biggest Malawian papers), so I tell him about PAW and give him the cards. He promises to get in touch, and seems interested enough to maybe do an article on the project.
At 2:30 we are off again, very full, very hot, and very, very dusty - not a comfortable journey. We arrive in Bangula at 3:30 and I check into the "VIP Room" at the Aska motel - their prices have gone up since last year and it now costs MK750 (£3) per night.
Isaac Falakesa, BangulaAfter a cold drink I head up to Isaac Falakesa's house. He is the retired headmaster of the primary school, and an old friend, and I am hoping that he will give me some assistance with the education project. He is very pleased to see me and more than happy to help with the project. As well as getting to the schools, I also need to get up to the reserve and to the PAW site just outside the reserve at Siki village. Although the occasional vehicle travels up to the park, there is no public transport, and the best way to get there is by bicycle. Bicycle taxis are not hard to come by, but another possibility that occurs to me is to hire a bicycle for the duration of my stay. I ask Isaac if this is possible, and we walk down to the other end of town, and he has a long conversation with a guy. A price does not seem to have been agreed, but the guy agrees to meet him at eight the following morning and then they will meet me at the Aska at nine.
We return to the Aska for a beer, and then he suggests that he should go and get the teachers to discuss the project, so I have a much needed shower while he fetches them.
He returns with Mr. Ritch, the deputy head of the primary school, and Mr. Makina, the head of the Kalambo Secondary School (there are two secondary schools in Bangula, a fact which I inconveniently forget later on!). We discuss the project, and they are happy to help. The schools are actually on holiday at the moment, but both schools have groups of pupils studying for exams in September, although the school at Tisa, which I had hoped to include, is closed. We agree that the best plan is for them to introduce the idea to the kids, and to select groups, tomorrow, and then I will meet the groups on Tuesday and Wednesday. I am looking for groups of around 10, so we decide on one group from the secondary school and two groups from the primary school.
We drink some more beer, and I dig my meat and cheese out of Aska's fridge and have some supper. They have not seen the pictures I took last year, so I fetch the laptop and we have a photo session and discuss how to alleviate poverty in Africa.

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