Farewell Ripple - hello Butterfly

Posted on: 06/05/10. Updated: November 2010

Farewell Ripple . . .
Baking bread at Agnes' houseAlmost as soon as as I had extended my stay at Ripple a couple of interesting opportunities came up. One of them was a joint project run by Ripple and Wilderness Safaris, who run Mvuu Lodge in the Liwonde reserve and also Chinteche Inn, which is just up the road from Mwaya. One of Ripple's successes is the tree planting program which involves some fairly technical budding and grafting techniques to allow improved varieties of various fruits to be grown. The young seedlings are nurtured at the Ripple tree nursery, which is run by Catherine, who really knows her stuff. As far as I could work out the plan was to set up a similar nursery at Chinteche Inn and it had been suggested that a Ripple volunteer would help to set up the project. This would proably mean leaving Mwaya Beach and living at Chinteche Inn, which is a very up-market lodge, and close to Chinteche, which is a bigger town than Matete.
The other possibility was Butterfly Lodge in Nkhata Bay, which is right next door to Mayuka and provides inernet access. I had heard about this from various sources: Catherine, who runs Mayoka Lodge, had mentioned that they had some sort of community centre and were looking for volunteers and Daniella at the Kaya Papaya restaurant had also mentioned them. When I told Force Ngwira, who runs the whole of Ripple in Malawi, that I was looking for something to do after Ripple, he said that he had a lot of contacts and put me in touch with Yotam Msuku, who works for the Wildlife and Environmental Society of Malawi. It turned out that he was also setting up a Community Resource Centre in Nkhata Bay, which would include internet access and computer teaching facilities. This would eventually have premises of its own, but in the meantime a prototype centre had been set up - at Butterfly Lodge. It seemed that fate was guiding me towards Butterfly Lodge, so after a bit of dithering I decided I would have to disappoint Ripple and Wilderness Safaris and move to NkhataBay once my four week extension had expired.
 Lauren in the tree nurseryThe last few weeks at Ripple were quite strange. I decided to give up teaching at Kapanda as I found it far too stressful. When we painted Matate Primary I had promised that I would go and teach there on fridays, but every friday after we got back from Mozambique there was some sort of problem, and in the end I never managed to get back there, which is a shame as I would have liked to have seen the kids in their newly painted classroom. I thought I might do some pre-school teaching, but somehow I never managed to get around to that either. What I did do (while I was still thinking I might take on the Chinteche Tree Nursery project) was spend most mornings at the Mwaya tree nursery with Catherine and her two sidekicks Chinzo and Mova. This usually involved watering or trimming the seedlings and was very relaxed and pleasant.
Before Ralph and Scott left we spent a morning at Agnes' house. As well as doing the housekeeping at Ripple Agnes also baked bread for us, and every volunteer is at some point invited to her house to experience the process, which makes for a very pleasant morning.
The 12th April was Emma's birthday, for which one of her relatives had bought her two hours horse riding at Kande Horse, which is half an hour up the road near Kande beach, so Lynsey and I decided to join her. Kande Horse is a very well organised outfit run by a couple of brits who live on the premises. They must have twenty or thirty horses and charge USD60 for a two hour ride. I haven't been on a horse since I was a teenager, but it all came back to me and we had a thoroughly good time.
Riding with Kande HorseOne of the more interesting phenomena of Lake Malawi (whether it occurs on other large African lakes as well I'm not sure) is the huge clouds of lake flies that hatch in the water and fly above the lake in swarms. They are tiny flies but swarm in such huge numbers that fishermen have been known to actually suffocate if caught in the cloud. They are also a good source of protein, and if the cloud is blown ashore, villagers will rush out and catch them in baskets or nets, make them into patties and fry them. I had seen the flies before, but on this occasion they came ashore just along the beach from Mwaya and I was able to get pictures of them being caught.
Catherine, who runs the tree nursery, is an exceptionally intelligent and well educated Malawian, who took advantage of a government sponsored course to learn about modern farming and tree propagating techniques. Her son, Kennedy, who is also very bright, works at the Ripple office in Chinteche, and my Mondays were spent giving him computer lessons, which I thoroughly enjoyed. On the sunday before I left Ripple she invited me to visit her house, which is close to the tree nursery and to Mwaya Beach. I never get used to the conditions in which Malawians live. The houses are tiny, generally stone, with stone floors and small windows. because glass is beyond the means of most people the windows are often half bricked up (I've never been quite sure of the reason for this, but I presume it is an attempt to keep the rain out), as a result of which the rooms are very dark, and of course there is no electricity, although some people now have car batteries and inverters, which produce enough mains voltage electricity to power a radio or even a television. Houses are used primarily for sleeping, and presumably for shelter from the rain. All other activities take place outside.
Catching lake fliesHer advanced knowledge of composting means that Catherine has had a much better yield on her maize than most of the villagers (almost everyone has their own plot of land for growing maize or cassava) and large quantities had been laid outside her house to dry. Rather than the usual nseema she had cooked me chicken and chips, which was delicious. As always with such invitations it is noticeable that only the inviter and the invitee get to eat - her family were all there and helped with the cooking, but chicken and chips for more than two would be out of the question - the rest of the family would eat nseema, or nothing. In the afternoon we played cards with Kennedy (who is actually here nephew but has been raised by her as his parents died when he was young) and various other family members. It was a very relaxed and pleasant day and I wished that I was staying around longer to be able to return the favour.
However, my time at Ripple was running out. Butterfly Lodge seemed keen for me to start as soon as possible, and I didn't feel that I was doing anything useful at Ripple, so I decided to leave early. The plan was to leave on the Monday, but Kennedy persuaded me to give him a final computer lesson. However, he couldn't actually do Monday, so I spent Monday packing, and at first light on Tuesday a hefted my rucksack onto my back, caught the minibus to Chinteche, gave Kennedy his final lesson, and then got another minibus the rest of the way to Nkhata Bay.
Lunch at Catherine's house
. . .Hello Butterfly
Supper at ButterflyButterfly Lodge is run by AJ (Alice-Jane) from Bristol, her Malawian partner Kumbu, their two year old daughter Ezmeekie and their three dogs Yuka, Baggie and Moyzie, although its not clear who is actually in charge!
Life at Butterfly is different in many respects from Ripple. The chalets are not as plush, but they do have electricity (when ESCOM manage to supply it). We don't get our food and and laundry done for us, but there is a bar. We can't use the kitchen for cooking but there is a little m'baula (charcoal stove), a big barbeque for special occasions, or we can buy the lodge food which is pretty good and not too expensive. Best of all there is no volunteer charge, and volunteers pay half price accommodation, which for a chalet is MK800 (about UKP3) a night.
The lodge also provides a Community Resource Centre, which offers four laptop computers with internet access (when it works - as I write the whole of Malawi has been without internet access for three days, no one is quite sure why), a selection of leaflets on various health and education topics, a youth club and a playground, and also provides teachers to the local nursery school and organises netball and football. It was apparently set up by a previous English volunteer called Craig (if you're reading this, good job Craig) as a prototype for the Community Centre that Yotam and his team are planning to build. The internet cafe offers cheap email access and free internet to locals who are working on bona fide research of some sort. The youth club now has its own building (as of about three weeks ago) and offers pool, bowling and a variety of organised activities three times a week.
Cooking on the M'baulaMy real job here is intended to be to help organise and run the computer centre, following on from the work done by a previous volunteer, Simon, who has done a pretty good job. However, I had no sooner arrived than I was recruited by the incumbent volunteers, Dan, Tim and Axel, to help run the afternoon youth club, which involved some origami followed by a somewhat chaotic game of dodgeball, and on the wednesday they asked me to come and give a hand at the Gulugufe Nursery School (gulugufe is butterfly in chitonga), which has around 30 kids in two classes. There is currently only one local teacher, and Dan, who is a trained nursery teacher from America, has done a lot of work, providing teaching materials and an organised programme of activities, as a result of which attendance has grown significantly. However this does mean that they need two teachers at the very least, and ideally four. After Kapanda Form 2 the nursery school is a huge relief. The kids are sweet and I really enjoy doing it. The trouble is that after I've got up at six, taught  nursery from 7:30 until 10:30, done any necessary laundry and shopping (food storage is limited so it is necessary to shop at least every two days) and had lunch there is not a lot of time or energy left for working in the computer centre. After two weeks I am still trying, reluctantly, to wriggle out of nursery school and spend more time with the laptops.
Barbeque on the beachAt the weekend it transpired that Tim had befriended a local musician called Foster Banda who has actually made a CD single of his song "M'Mbali Mwanyanja" ("The people who live by the lake"). He was having trouble getting his song played in the local bars because he didn't have a video, so Tim undertook to make a video using his Lumix still camera which takes good HD video, and AJ's video editing software. As a result we spent the whole of Sunday at various locations around Nkhata Bay filming Foster and his team of three out-of-step dancers (I got used as choreographer, which shows how desperate they were). It was great fun and we got about 40 mins of footage, which Tim now has the unenviable task of editing into a 4'30'' video. (Update November 2010 - Foster's video is now on YouTube, and can be viewed at the bottom of the page).
For the first couple of days of this week the power was out, and Axel was away on a kayaking trip, so I ended up back at the nursery school. I also have a queue of locals eager for elementary lessons on Word and Excel.
All in all I am enjoying Butterfly (except for the moment when I put on my swimming trunks, felt something moving, peered in and found a huge spider rummaging about in my pubic hair).. Nkhata Bay is a good sized town and although it's a 20 minute walk into town, at least there is a decent shopping centre with a supermarket, restaurants and bars. I'm glad to get away from secondary school teaching (although my summary of Shooting music videoRomeo and Juliet is available in the Resource Centre and getting an increasing trickle of requests, so it my only be a matter of time before someone asks for my services) and it's also good to have some male company.
As I write everyone is suffering from severe hangovers following a heavy night in the Mayoka bar on Friday and a big birthday party at Butterfly last night which went on until 5:30. I managed the Friday do but bottled out at 10:00 last night.
05/05/10
I didn't manage to get this posted last week, so a little more news.
I have managed to arrange a place at a government boarding school for Charles Banda, the extremely bright youngster that I taught at Kapanda. This will not be as good as a private boarding school, but better than the community day school, and a lot cheaper. Even government boarding school only costs £30 a term, which I am happy to pay myself. However, what I would like to do is find someone who will commit to sponsoring his university education as well - any offers please email me. (Update November 2010 - a sponsor for Charles has now been found).
Yesterday I went back for a visit to Ripple - it was Lynsey's 30th birthday and leaving party. They even managed to lay on a disco - powered by a car battery!
Gulugufe pre-schoolComing up
Several of the guys here are qualified divers, so I've decided to fork out for a PADI refresher course and join them on a dive tomorrow.
Gaynor the director of PAW is flying out next week for the grand opening of the lodge at the Mwabvi Game Reserve (see the PAW website for details) so I am taking a couple of weeks off from Butterfly to join in the celebrations.
After that I'm going to fork out even more for a four day safari in South Luangwa National Park in Zambia, so watch out for the next exciting episode.Tim at Butterfly youth club (Dan and AJ in b/g)

"M'Mbali Mwanyanja (The people who live by the lake)" by Foster Banda

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