
Life at Butterfly
is very pleasant, but I don't feel that I'm doing anything very useful.
I spend most days in the computer room (despite my solemn vow that I
wouldn't work with computers while in Africa!) tidying up the system,
preparing some teaching plans and giving lessons in basic Word and
Internet usage to the locals. Unfortunately they have recently
installed Linux to try and avoid viruses, and I'm not familiar with this
operating system, so I can't do as much as I could if they were using
Windows. Luckily I have been joined by an Israeli girl called Iris who
does know Linux, so between us we have been able to make a few
improvements. I've also managed to spend a few mornings at the nursery
school which I really enjoy.
In my "free time " I have done my first SCUBA dive for 15 years, which
was great fun and not expensive (Aqua Africa in Nkhata Bay is reputed
to be the cheapest in Africa if not the world), and I also spent a day
kayaking on the lake with a couple of the girls from Ripple.
Unfortunately the planned Grand Opening of the lodge at Mwabvi didn't
happen. However, Gaynor made her trip over, and the big excitement of
the month was the arrival by plane of two lion cubs from South Africa.
I had originally booked a four day safari in South Luangwa National
Park in Zambia for 26th March, but this turned out to be the
very day the lions were arriving. Luckily I was able to put the safari
back a week and join Gaynor and Barry at Blantyre Airport.

It
turned out that Iris was also traveling down to Blantyre, so we decided
to take the night bus down to Blantyre together. I didn't relish the
idea of traveling all night on a bus, but then at the last minute two
other volunteers, Nikolas and Anne from Germany, announced that they
were going down to Blantyre the same day and would we like a lift - yes
they actually have a car! This was a great opportunity not only to
travel in comfort, with good company, but also to give my German a bit
of an airing.
In the event we got off a bit late and couldn't make it all the way to
Blantyre, so we decided to stop off at Mabuya Camp in Lilongwe. I had a
day in hand (this was Monday and the lions were due to arrive on
Wednesday) so it wasn't a problem. Mabuya is a well known backpackers'
lodge and most travellers stay there when passing through Lilongwe, but
until now I have always gone for the luxury of the Kiboko hotel.
However I am keeping a closer eye on my budget now, and Mabuya is
significantly cheaper (MK800 for a tent as opposed to around USD50 for
a hotel room - big difference!).
At Mabuya we met Marcel and Johanna, and their two daughters Ronja and
Julia, also from Germany, who were traveling south in a fire engine
which they had bought from the German fire service and done out as a
mobile home - or rather they were trying to. Unfortunately the fire
engine had broken down and they were stuck in Lilongwe waiting for some
rather esoteric spare parts to be delivered from Germany. Amazingly
they told us that not only had they been passed by another German fire
engine,but they had also heard of yet another traveling somewhere in
East Africa. There must be a special offer on German fire engines at
the moment!

Lauren
from Ripple also popped up at Mabuya (it's amazing how you run into
people in Malawi) as she was meeting her father from Canada and also
Geoff the Ripple director from England (of whom more later). Iris went
off to bed early and I ended up with a whole bunch of Germans plus
Lauren for a beer drinking session.
On Tuesday we carried on down to Blantyre, where Iris left us to climb
Mount Mulanje and then to continue south to South Africa for the World
Cup. Niko and Anne and I went for a very nice vegetarian curry in
Blantyre.
On Wednesday I was up bright and early to be picked up by Gaynor, Barry
and Kristen at 6:30, who had already driven the the two hours up from
Mwabvi. The plane was due to arrive at 8:00 but they wanted to be at
the airport in good time to sort out the paperwork.
There was great excitement at the airport, and we could see the staff
peering into the box to see the lions as soon as it was unloaded from
the plane. They had not been sedated for the flight and a vet was on
hand to check that they had not suffered any ill effects, so the box
was opened as soon as it was brought into the cargo area, to the great
delight of the rest of the airport staff. There wasn't as much press
presence as we would have liked, but several people from the Wildlife
and Environment Society of Malawi and the Malawi Environment
Endowment Trust were there taking photographs by the hundred and they
have press contacts so hopefully there will be some coverage.

The
lions were duly declared fit and healthy. They were also a good deal
larger than expected - Barry had been told that they were about 8 weeks
old but in fact they are about 3 months, and very playful. They
certainly weren't going to sit on our laps in the vehicle as we had
thought they might, so they went back in the box
The journey to Mwabvi was uneventful, although Kirsten had written
"Lions on board" in the dirt on the back window, and everywhere we
stopped people queried it, and when they found out it was actually true
wanted to have a look. Most Malawians have never seen a lion, or indeed
any other non-domestic animal, entry to wildlife reserves being way
beyond their means. In many cases they have not even seen pictures.
Our arrival at Mwabvi was greeted with great excitement by Adele,
Courtney their other daughter, and Selwyn, Barry's Dad, who was
visiting from South Africa - his first time in Malawi. The two cubs
(whose names have not been finally decided yet) seemed happy with their
new surroundings, and we spent the afternoon playing with them.
However, they soon decided that there were lots of interesting places
to explore outside the site, and had to be physically hauled back
several times (you see the picture of Barry carrying the male - I ended
up doing the same with the female, but no one had a camera at the time
so you'll have to believe me).
I think they had planned to keep these sweet 8 week old kittens in the
house to start with, but that obviously wasn't going to work, so
temporary accommodation had to be hurriedly set up in the vehicle
workshop until a proper compound could be set up. Meanwhile
Adele went off to Bangula to buy several kilograms of goat for their
supper.
Although the official opening of Njati Lodge (Njati is Chichewa for
Buffalo) had been postponed, they were expecting their very first
guests as it was WESM's annual weekend at the reserve. Normally a few
of them come down every year and camp in the reserve - for many years
just about the only visitors the reserve ever got. This year they were
offered the options of a real bed in a lodge or a camping at a proper
campsite, plus an encounter with two lion cubs, so attendance was a
little higher than usual. As always with such events several things
were not quite finished, and I was quickly drafted in to help put the
final sheets of mosquito mesh into the windows and make up the beds,
and despite the usual set backs, by the time the first guests arrived
mid-afternoon on Friday we were just about ready. There was no actual
catering available, but there were cold drinks in the fridge and lots
of firewood on the braai and everyone seemed very impressed.

Barry has done
wonders with the place since I was here last. He has a staff of around
fifty local workmen, and has not only built the lodge virtually from
scratch (it had been started when he arrived but needed a lot of
reworking) and done up the campsite, he has also started a massive road
building programme so that visitors can do proper game drives and
actually see some wildlife (we saw a beautiful male Kudu on the way
back from the lodge one evening)
I spent Saturday and Sunday morning helping Barry erect a fence to
provide a proper compound for the cubs, who were getting pretty fed up
of being stuck in the garage. The long term plan is to set up a
predator breeding programme, so eventually the entire site will be
fenced. The cubs are only slightly related and are quite suitable for
breeding, but they will not reach breeding age for a couple of years
yet.
The other good news is that I asked if I could be useful at the reserve
in the longer term, and Barry and Adele said yes, so I am going to
leave Butterfly and be a volunteer at Mwabvi for a while. It's an
excellent time to do it, both in terms of the reserve, which is now
ready to receive both guests and volunteers (several volunteers are
booked in over the next few months) and of the time of year - Mwabvi is
down in the rift valley and gets extremely hot, so this cool time of
year is the best time to be there. Whether I'll still be there in
October and November when it really gets hot remains to be seen.

I managed to
get a lift to Blantyre with one of the WESM guys, and, even better, a
lift to Lilongwe with another. So far I haven't had to use public
transport at all, although getting a lift back to Nkhata Bay might be a
bit trickier. As I write I am back at Mabuya lodge in Lilongwe
(with a throat infection!) and off to Zambia tomorrow for my four day
safari in South Luangwa National Park. Then it's back up to Ripple to
meet Geoff, deliver some medical supplies kindly donated by Mark, and
check that Charles' place at Likoma boarding school and Annie's driving
course are all sorted out. Then I'll go back to Butterfly to pick up
some stuff I left there, and provided I can still get everything into
my rucksack I'll be heading south again to Mwabvi.
Keep reading!