Day 6. Thu 18th September
Ras Mohammed National Park.
I am awake about 5 with an aching back, so I get up and take a stroll while
the Necropolis of Ras Mohammed gradually comes to life.
After a delicious breakfast of pancakes and fruit eaten in the shade
of the bedouin tent we set off on the first outing of the day - the salt
lake and mud bath. To this day I am not sure whether this was an elaborate
practical joke by Explore on their tourists. The salt "lake" is about 2
inches deep, and to reach it we must make our way across a layer of salt
crystals on top of thick mud. Our guide today is called Ahmed (what a surprise!),
and he makes a large hole in the salt and scoops up great gobs of foul-smelling
mud, which we are then expected to slop all over our bodies. We are assured
by Maria that this is very therapeutic and that we will feel marvellous
afterwards. Several sensible people decline the privilege, and are given
the cameras. After a good deal of hilarity and several photo calls, the
mud is rinsed off in the biting salty water of the lake. The smallest drop
in the eyes or mouth necessitates a scramble to the shore for fresh water,
eyes tight shut and razor-sharp ice-crystals in the sandals. I have to
say that, while very amusing, the process does not engender any particular
feeling of well-being, and we didn't half pong afterwards.
We pile back into the vehicles and head to the beach for some snorkelling.
Ras Mohammed was the first of the five Egyptian National Parks. It is world
renowned as a snorkelling and diving centre, and does not disappoint. As
the coral reef drops precipitously away the number, variety and sheer beauty
of the brightly coloured marine fish, as well as the corals themselves,
is breathtaking. We find a turtle swimming ponderously at the surface and
all gather around the mystified creature.We spend about ¾ hour snorkelling
in the warm water, and I for one could easily have stayed in much longer.
Unfortunately no-one has a waterproof camera, so we get no pictures.
On the way back to the campsite for lunch we have a look at a mangrove
swamp, and make a quick trip to the Ras Mohammed Visitors Centre to watch
an educational film and look at exhibits.
It seems they are still having trouble with the leaking radiator, and
Ahmed borrows a cake of soap off me, which is returned after lunch with
about ¼" neatly excised. Quite how you fix a leaky radiator with
soap I'm not entirely sure, but it seems to work.
About 15:00 we set of for Sharm El Sheikh for a quick shop before we
catch the ferry across the Gulf of Suez to Hurghada. For reasons which
are not quite clear we must go through passport control, as well as the
ubiquitous metal detectors.
The ferry is a high-speed catamaran, and there is no opportunity to
go on deck, or even wander around much. We all sit in seats below just
like in an airoplane.
We say farewell to Sinai as the sun sets.
On arrival in Hurghada both ourselves and our luggage must be passed
through metal detectors yet again, although exactly what dangerous metal
objects we could have picked up on the ferry trip is unclear. The luggage
scan is entirely pointless anyway, as every single bag contains something
metal and beeps, but none is searched.
We finally escape the bustle of the port into waiting minibuses and
in ten minutes arrive at the Sea Garden Hotel. It is already half-past
nine, and we have the option of a buffet by the hotel pool (where, allegedly,
a belly-dancer performs on Thursday nights), or going into town. Most of
us decide to stay in the hotel, although unfortunately the belly dancer
has knocked off early and is gone by the time we get to the restaurant.
We are all, pretty tired and after a pleasant pool-side meal we hit the
sack.