Day 9. Sun 29th September
Kigoma
We arrive at Kigoma in the early hours of the morning, and anchor in the
harbour. The itinerary states that we will be ferried to shore in fishing
boats, but this hardly seems feasible considering that this is the last
port of call and all the passengers must get off, and indeed it turns out
not to be the case. I take advantage of the offer to use the officers'
facilities to get a shower, although I must say that the loos have not
been nearly as bad as we had feared - a bit smelly but I've seen much worse
at pop festivals in Britain.
The ship finally moors by the quay, and we disembark with very little
fuss.
A 2 minute taxi drive takes us the the Tanganyika Beach Hotel, made
famous by Michael Palin in "Pole to Pole" under its alter ego the "Railway
Hotel". It's name was changed when it was removed from the control of the
railway company and privatised, but a sign saying "Railway Hotel" still
hangs at the front.
Shortly after arriving Ken informs us that there is a problem. After visiting
the Gombe Streams NP, the next leg of our journey is to be a train ride
from Kigoma to Dodoma where we are to be reunited with Pete, Auxies and
the Land Rovers. However, there seems to have been a mix up with the ticket
bookings, which were made in August 2001, but now seem to be for the wrong
day. Ken leaves us to our own devices while he tries to sort it out.
We have actually arrived in Kigoma much earlier than expected, due
to the Liemba having fewer passengers and less cargo than normal. We walk
into town, but, being Sunday very little is open. We find the Jane Goodall
Institute, but it appears to be no more than some offices, also closed.
The heat is vicious, so we return to the hotel for some major laundry and
lunch.
The hotel is right on the lake, and we discuss swimming, but although
Ken says it is safe several members of the group have been reading about
the dangers of bilharzia, (not to mention the tiny fish that takes advantage
of any hapless male bather who relieves himself by following the trail
of urine and swimming up his penis) and we decide against it.
At lunch Ken tells us that he is still having problems with the train
tickets, and must go back tomorrow morning while we are at Gombe. He also
issues us with instructions on what to if chased by a chimp - they say
you should hang on to the nearest tree, but don't explain why.
While we are having lunch Ken is approached by a young German chap
who is travelling round Africa. He tells us that once a year he leaves
his wife and family in Germany and sets off by himself to travel in Africa.
He has just arrived on the overnight train from Dar es Salaam, and has
heard that we are visiting Gombe in the morning. He asks if he can share
our boat, and Ken agrees.
A couple of brave souls venture back into town. The rest of us read,
sleep and do laundry for the rest of the afternoon.